Sultan mediterranean st louis. Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant St. Louis, MO 63110

Review: Sultān Mediterranean serves a mix of familiar and unfamiliar Middle Eastern specialties in The Grove

sultan mediterranean st louis

Again, these are not simply rehashes of common dishes; Mohammed prepares them as if it's the first time anyone has done so. Now for those less common dishes: Sultān pilau, a Kurdish specialty, is a mix of rice, lamb shank, almonds, walnuts, pistachio, and raisins wrapped in a large dome of phyllo. Both coffee and tea will be served with a presentation far lovelier than the usual American style. The Turkish coffee and herbal tea, delivered on ornate brass trays in shining pots and sipped from delicate brass-and-glass cups, feel special. Louis will open its doors in the Grove — Sultan Mediterranean Cuisine 4200 Manchester Avenue. It's not that their presence is novel; you can find rice-stuffed grape leaves at just about any Mediterranean restaurant.

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Sultan Mediterranean Cuisine Opens This Weekend in the Grove

sultan mediterranean st louis

A layer of char around the exterior deepens its flavor. I later learned they are the daughters of the owners Akram Saeed and Jenar Mohammed, from the Kurdistan region of Iraq, who resettled in St. Wall hangings bring a colorful touch to the crisp, neat-as-a-pin interior. Maroon tapestries hang from the neutral walls in each of the two dining rooms, seating about 85 people total. Sesame seeds and za'atar add additional complexity; the za'atar especially pairs beautifully with the char-blistered naan that is provided for dipping.

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Sultan Mediterranean Cuisine Opens This Weekend in the Grove

sultan mediterranean st louis

A different flavor reveals itself with every bite. At Sultan with Chef Jenar Mohammed and daughters Media Saeed and Soleen. I cannot recommend this place enough and have suggested it to all my friends! Grilled naan serves as the base for a mélange of minced beef, onions and herbs; the texture evokes rustic tomato sauce, but the flavor is more difficult to wrap your head around — pleasantly gamey, tart, almost cinnamon-spiked. Sprinkled with sumac-flavored pickled onion to add a bit of sourness, the lahmageen also comes with a lemon wedge and a light drizzle of garlic yogurt. Middle Eastern tapestries hang from the grey-painted walls, and colorful chandeliers with stained-glass globes dangle from the ceilings. Chef Jenar explained to me that the pieces resembling cloth purses are actually pouches carried by herdsmen. To liken Sultan's dolmas to such a mass-produced product, however, would be like comparing A5 Wagyu beef to a sirloin from Ponderosa.

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The Vine Cafe

sultan mediterranean st louis

Their lentil soup and pilau are both superb along with everything else on the menu. It's happening in the former home of Erney's 32 Degrees, which has undergone extensive renovations in the year since husband-and-wife couple Jenar Mohammed and Akram Saeed took over the space. But the beef kabob steals the show. I choice this place often over some of the other restaurants nearby. Sultan has ample seating — roughly 25 tables — but the restaurant is already popular enough to ensure those are full during most dinner services. There, she perfected her recipes and expanded her repertoire by teaching herself other Middle Eastern cuisines Turkish, Syrian, Palestinian.

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Review: Sultān Mediterranean serves a mix of familiar and unfamiliar Middle Eastern specialties in The Grove

sultan mediterranean st louis

Land , chicken and beef kofte were all well cooked. It's a symphony of textures and flavors that is both richly savory and refreshing at the same time. I bundled up in my long, pillowy coat certified to minus-15 degrees below zero and off we went. Update: on a return visit I had the meatballs and also the saffron-flavored dessert cake. That she can operate in this sweet spot makes Sultan a terrific addition to the city's dining scene — one we didn't even know we'd been missing. Its dark tomato sauce is salty, rich and heavy with garlic and oregano, perfect spooned over the accompanying side of white basmati rice and balanced by a zesty cucumber, tomato and onion salad. Usually, though, they are basic and often even from a can, plopped next to some shawarma as an afterthought.

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Sauce Magazine

sultan mediterranean st louis

And therein lies Mohammed's talent. Impressions You come away from Sultan with the distinct impression that this place is going to make it. The Downside The only hiccup in the operation is the lack of a dedicated lunch menu, which is still in the works. By the time Inda called me, she was weary of the household purification rite and was ready for some warm sustenance. The sauce practically begs to be soaked up by a piece of the house-made naan.

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Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant St. Louis, MO 63110

sultan mediterranean st louis

Here were some of the standouts. The couple had long hoped to open a restaurant. Her talent for eggplant dishes is not limited to the baba ganoush. The lamb shank—a huge portion, expertly cooked in garlic, olive oil, and lemon—is so tender, it barely clings to the bone. For main courses, Sultan offers several kabobs, served with basmati rice, a grilled tomato and tomato-cucumber salad.

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Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant St. Louis, MO 63110

sultan mediterranean st louis

The family is eager to welcome its first guests. In their adopted city, Saeed worked as a valet, taxi driver and local truck driver while Mohammed stayed at home with the family. I no longer cook daily for a family of 7 like I once did. It pairs perfectly with the deep-black coffee for a divine end to a memorable meal. But now that they're in, they're all in.

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